NYTimes.com – Zakary Pelaccio, a partner in the various Fatty restaurants in Manhattan and Brooklyn, has moved upstate, to Hudson. With his wife, the chef Jori Jayne Emde, and Kevin Pomplun, another chef, he has opened this rustic restaurant where the menu changes daily. “For me it’s very refreshing and spontaneous,” said Mr. Pelaccio. Nearly everything, including Asian fish sauce, vermouth and vinegars, is being made in house. Many ingredients come from his garden; foraging helps stock the walk-in, too. The menu is driven, in part, by a nose-to-tail approach as Mr. Pelaccio butchers lambs and pigs, and selects various parts each night. Duck on a spit and fish are also served.